Japanese

 

Akasaka

Sandwiched between the Lucky Charm All-Nude Nightclub and the Tres Jolie Skin Review, Akasaka is not situated in the best neighborhood. In fact the entire block is loaded with XXX clubs and peep show places. As you prepare for a good meal phrases like TOTALLY NUDE and ACTION THEATER flash at you in neon from all directions. Bouncers give you the evil eye as you take one of the choice parking spaces in front of their establishments. On super busy nights, the building creaks as unseen pole dancers hurl themselves in dizzying gyrations on both sides of the restaurant.

Inside Akasaka its a different world. Since the ram eats here pretty early, Ace, the main sushi guy is normally teaching his apprentice how to make a 100 foot superthin daikon ribbon, with a sashimi knife, from one large white radish. I dunno what they are going to do with it. The efficient waitresses are bustling about noiseless delivering food and drink. All is tranquil and orderly.

Akasaka is known, first, for its sushi. Ace is an ace, and he takes pleasure in embellishing his sushi platters and assortments with neatly carved netting and vegetables that resemble flowers. He makes killer natto and salmon skin rolls. They also serve the normal teishoku stuff like tempura, steak, butterfish, etc. They also have some noodle dishes.

What they are best known for is their sizzling scallops. Served on a hot metal platter, it arrives with all the sound and fury that you see at northern Chinese restaurants. Topped with a dollop of mayo and a secret ingredient its perfect as an appetizer with a tall bottle of ice cold Sapporo.

The ram goes here for none of the above. He wants nabe mono or things cooked in a pot. The sukiyaki is my favorite. Arriving in a deep metallic pot, the veggies, tofu, konyaku and chicken are submerged in a steaming tasty broth. Everything is neatly grouped. First, you scramble your raw egg and pour into the mixture to enrich the taste. Then you eat as fast as you can handle the super hot morsels. With a bowl of fresh rice and a few pickled dishes, this is heaven. After the meal, if you’re with the boys, go next door for dessert.

Gyu Kaku

Is it Korean or Japanese? I really don’t know. And don’t really care either. You are greeted in Japanese, over and over again. The bartender starts it off and it echoes all over the establishment as each staffer is required to welcome you at the top of their lungs. But some of the food have Korean names and yaki-niku, I believe, is a Korean concept. Whatever. Just as long as the food is good, I’m there.

Gyu Kaku is a black place. Black sign out front. The staff wears only black. The furniture is a charred black as though it was rescued from a recent fire. And, the lighting is very directed so the whole place has a "back alley" feel to it. And although everything is crammed together, the lighting and the blackness gives you a sense of privacy. So in the darkness with the noise from the shouting staff you sit back and sip your draft Kirin and begin enjoying yourself.

Twenty years ago, I would have never agreed to go to a restaurant, pay good money, and end up cooking my own food. That just didn’t make any sense. Today I know how good food taste immediately out of the fire. Here’s how it works at Gyu Kaku. Each totally black booth has a black table with a hole in it. In the hole is a container of red hot charcoal. This hole is high tech because the common complaint about yaki niku is you normally come out of the restaurant smelling like you’ve put in 12 hours at Bethlehem Steel. You gotta go home, shampoo and shower. The boys of GK have thought this through and built in little sucking vent holes at the edge of the hole to remove all the smoke from the cooking food before it can get into your hair and sweater. Ingenious.

The first thing they do at GK is bring the flame up on the coals. Then they pass out these metallic clipboard looking menus that contain all the stuff that you can cook in the fire hole. Different cuts of meat from different animals, sausages, chicken, seafood and vegetables. It will take you awhile to decide on your first visit.

The ram suggest that you spend most of your money on kalbi, kobe beef, skirt steak, scallops, shrimp and chicken for the ladies. The veggies are worthless. If you’re adventurous try the beef tongue. It’s delicious. You should also get the tofu salad and the unagi bibinbap. A very hot ceramic bowl is brought to the table, sweet unagi and some unknown veggies are mixed into the hot rice in the bowl along with some peppers. Then the rice is pushed up against the side of the bowl to brown (to get burnt). When it reaches the level of burntness that you like, you serve it up in bowls.

Your black table that you thought was big enough will get jammed with all of these dishes, so you have to be organized when you eat here. The food is always excellent. Even if you’re a poor cook. Everybody pitches in to make sure that nothing gets burnt to a crisp.

The folks that I go with look forward to the dessert course the most. Pancakes are brought to the table and put in the fire pit to toast. When sufficiently burned ice cream laced with honey is shoveled onto it and the pancake is folded over like a sandwich. Some folks can eat three of these to finish off the meal. Burp.

This is a good restaurant to go to with good friends. You don’t have to dress up, the setting is comfortable and it isn’t going to cost you an arm and a leg. One last suggestion: know where the nearest exit is. Just in case your neighbors set their table on fire.

Imanas Tei

This is one of the toughest restaurant to get into in Honolulu. Reservations are taken between 5 and 7 PM, The rest of the time, its a free-for-all: submit your name and wait for the bad news on how many minutes or hours you have to wait. Long benches are situated to the side of the entrance, for those who want to wait. Parking also sucks. Four or five precious stalls are devoted to the restaurant and the Lexus and BMW crowd have a nightly jihad over them. Be prepared to walk at least a block and pay for parking if you don’t want to go to war for parking.

Is it worth all this effort? You’re darn tootin’ it is. Imanas serves three different types of Japanese fare: a good assortment of sushi, a tapas menu for those inclined to imbibe and relax after work, and a "nabe" menu for serious eaters. It’s known mostly for the latter, and that’s what the ram goes there for. "Nabe" is the Japanese word for pot and a nabe dish is usually a soup or stew-type dish that is cooked in one pot. Imanas offers two nabe dishes: shabu-shabu and a chanko nabe. The ram goes for the chanko. Chanko nabe is the protein-rich stew the sumo wrestlers eat to bulk up. After having chanko nabe, one does feel a little "chanko-ed." The belt has to be loosened a few notches.

A portable gas stove is set up on your table and fired up. A large coppery pot is placed over it. A dashi or soup base is added and brought to a boil. One of the not-too-talkative waitresses brings an overflowing platter of veggies, meat and you-name it and prepares to stick everything into the pot. in a very orderly way. First the pork balls go in (yummy). I forget the exact order, but stuff are slid into the pot depending on how fast it cooks. The longer cooking ingredients go in first. The ingredient list includes: Chinese cabbage, watercress, green onions, gobo, mushrooms, long rice, tofu, aburage, mochi, thinly sliced beef, chicken, king crab legs, clams, scallops, shrimp, and hunks of salmon. The sea food goes on this pile of goodies last and slowly submerges as the veggies get cooked. After a few minutes, it’s time to eat.

It doesn’t take more than another fifteen minutes for all the good stuff to go down the gullet, Viking-style. The quiet waitress returns, adds a little more soup base, scrambles a few eggs and adds it in, along with some rice or noodles and turns it into zosui - a rice or noodle porridge flavored with all the goodies cooked in the chanko broth. She serves it up in new bowls, sprinkles in some slashed-up sea weed and the chanko-nabe experience rolls to a stomach-warming conclusion. This whole dish will drain $36 from your VISA account and is supposed to feed two. It actually feeds four normal sized humans.

You roll out of the warmth of Imanas Tei and the world has taken on a rosey hue. Even the backside of Pucks Alley resembles the Taj Mahal, at least for a few seconds. Go here for a truly satisfying meal.

Michinoku

Michinoku’s is another little known gem of a restaurant on upper Kalakaua Avenue, next to Waikiki Realty. You have to drive through a hole in the building to park in the graveled area in the rear. The hunter-green Jaguars and white Lexus tell you sometime about the local folk that have discovered this restaurant. Three big tables, two small tables and a small sushi bar is what you have in this well lit restaurants that pumps Japanese music into its patron’s ears. Sometimes the music is folksy, reminding you of country scenes in a samurai movie, and sometimes its dirge-like.

You are welcomed by a very pleasant Japanese woman dressed in a working kimono. She does not speak English. The sushi bar is run by a head-banded fellow that never enters the main dining area. There are invisible territorial lines here. You get the feeling that they’re a couple, but the ram has never had the guts nor the language skills to ask.

Michinoku specializes in chirashi and udon dishes. The ram goes here for their chirashi. I’m sure the following description does not pass muster for dyed in the wool Japanese foodies, but what the hell. Chirashi is like deconstructed sushi. Sushi rice is placed in a bowl and an assortment of sashimi is placed on top of it in a visually pleasing way. You eat some sashimi and you eat some sushi rice, some sashimi, some rice, etc. You judge the quality of the dish by how good the sashimi is. Some lesser restaurants will include a slice of pink and white kamaboko in their chirashi. A siren should go off in your head when you see this. Rescue flares should explode, firemen should be sliding down their poles and mounting their trucks, tsunami alerts should be going off and flash flood warnings should be scrolling across the television set in your head. Kamaboko in chirashi is a "revolting development." Some will say it’s simply a decorative piece that’s edible. The ram says they’re slipping you the shaft. Kamaboko is not sashimi and has no place in a bowl of chirashi.

At Michinoku there are two levels of chirashi rice: Assortment A and Assortment B. They have fancy names for these, but I forgot what they are. Assortment A will run you $16 and Assortment B will jump up to $21. What’s the diff you ask? B, obviously has better stuff, tho I have never laid out the contests of an A against the contents of a B and made a comparison. Both are good. Just choose the one you can afford at that moment. The contents change depending on what’s available. Maguro is always present, along with clams, shrimp, a white fish, scallops, etc. Also always present is the sweet delicious tamago which the ram saves for last. Needless to say the stuff is fresh and delicious.

With the chirashi bowl comes an assortment of usual Japanese goodies on a tray. A small salad, miso soup, pickles, chawan mushi and usually a cooked vegetable side dish like kimpira gobo.

The ram's eating partner has a different version of chirashi.  Maguro is scrapped into a soft mass and natto is added and mixed in.  This concoction is placed on top of the sushi rice, embellished with flying fish eggs and other stuff and served.

Everybody walks out of Michinoku happy and a little lighter in the wallet, but what the hell, life is short. 

Nuuanu Okazuya

You always check the window display before going into Nuuanu Okazuya on busy Nuuanu Avenue. The food, at an okazuya is stored in a case in the window to show off the available variety. Inside the store the case has sliding screen doors through which the food is selected. You wanna see what’s left. Depending on the time of day you are doing this, the answer for "what’s left?" can range anywhere between "nothing" to "hey, they got everything." The earlier you make your visit the better your chances of getting what you want. In other words: go early. Early is usually six in the morning when working folks buy their lunches on their way to work.

Then you proceed through the doorway, and mess up your carefully coifed hair on the split curtains in the doorway. Normally it isn’t this easy. You usually have to wait on the sidewalk for the three or four people in front of you to order and pay.

Okazu, for you newbies, is a Japanese-Hawaiian word that really roughly translates to "stuff -that-goes-with-rice." Normally, this is mostly Japanese-style food, served cold. And here’s how the ordering process goes. You go into the okazuya - stuff-that-goes-with-rice store - stand in front of the food display and tell the order taker what you want.  Its placed on a paper plate as you order. When you are finished you are charged, ala carte, for each thing you ordered. Most folks start their order with their starch; usually a musubi or cone sushi, or two. Next the gals like to order their veggies like namasu, gobo, nishime, fried pumpkin and konbu maki. The guys usually like to start loading the protein: a teriyaki-ed slice of spam, a hot dog, a hamburger patty, fried saba, fried chicken, corned beef patty or a piece of shrimp tempura. The gals add one or two pieces of protein - usually the healthiest ones - and may add an order of chow fun noodles or fried noodles. The guys, after they have completely covered their paper plate with meaty stuff may add a noodle selection, just in case there might be room in their stomach after the protein, and perhaps a scoop of mac salad for taste. Nuuanu specializes in  homemade fishcake items - kamaboko with a piece of hot dog in it or a half of a boiled egg, etc. - that the gals go for also. They also make okara everyday, which is a rarity.

While you are ordering, a line is forming behind you.  You need to be quick and decisive.  The line can get surly.  Some even double park and leave their car engine running.  The quickest way to get lynched in a okazuya line is to order six separate plates with unique choices in each.  If you hem and haw and stutter a lot they may drag you across the street to Hosoi and order a different kind of box for you. 

While okazu is normally thought of as being Japanese, Okazuyas today sell almost anything. Hot dishes like sweet-sour ribs, squash and pork, peas and pork are common. I’ve even seen spaghetti sold in an okazuya.

The completed order is foiled and then wrapped in butcher paper held tight with a rubber band. A disposable chopstick wrapped in a napkin is slipped under the rubber band. Then, its time to add up the damage which is normally done in the head of the order taker.

How much does a normal plate cost. Depends on what you order. But on average it should not run you more than four bucks, unless you’re a glutton. Of all the okazuyas around, the ram goes to Nuuanu because they have the tastiest food at reasonable prices. And the hard working folks that run the place are always  pleasant and courteous, even if you hem and haw.

Utage Restaurant

When the ram as a kid - many, many moons ago (in fact, the moon has changed the shape of its orbit since)  - we used to go down to the local fish shop and get, for free, Aku or Ahi bones.  This is what remains of these Tuna after an expert knife wielder has removed the precious filets leaving the center bone and the radiating ribs with the thinnest veneer of flesh left on it.  Our local fish monger was glad to be rid of these "scraps" and we happily chopped them up and tied them to our crab nets.  Why?  To hunt the dangerous but delicious Samoan crab in a local creek.  It was crab bait.

The ram also came from a poor family and sometimes these Aku bones were turned into a meal.  Slightly salted and pan fried the bones were served with chazuke and some pickles.  I remember working the dark colored marrow out of the center bone with a single hashi.  It was delicious.

Well, things have changed.  These "scraps" have become precious and a very few restaurants will serve the bones as a main course.

Utage is an Okinawan formica-naugahyde-fluorescent-lighting-type restaurant, a stone's throw from the polluted Kapalama Canal.  The staff is very friendly and efficient.  If you go there on the wrong night be prepared the wait in line.  It serves standard Okinawan fare, the regular teishoku Japanese stuff as well some non-Oriental favorites like Hamburger Steak and Teri-beef entrees. The ram comes here for only one thing: bones.  Not to relive the past, but because it's delicious. 

As in the old days the "bones" are served simply.  An iceberg lettuce salad with one piece of tomato and one piece of cucumber starts the meal.  You get to pour some homemade 1000 Island dressing from a squeeze bottle over your salad.  Next comes the miso soup and then the main course.  The "bones" come on a plate with some white rice on it.  It's a lot of work - picking out the bones and stacking them neatly in a corner of the plate, but it's fresh,  delicious. and, I imagine, good for you.  If you're lazy you can order the Ahi Belly meal that has no bones in it.  The ram likes the bones cause its tastier. 

Before the bill comes, they offer you a choice of "crapioca" pudding or jello or even a scoop of ice cream for dessert.   You always leave Utage happy.  You've had a good, healthy meal in a friendly atmosphere and the economic damage has been minimal.