I learned how to make this bag after watching a demonstration at a local store. All of a sudden, ideas of what I could do with them ran wild in my mind. I asked for instructions, but there were none, so I set out to make my own! Although I am not the original creator, I would be very disappointed if someone took undeserved credit for it. There probably is a formal pattern to make this style of bag and an actual name for it, but it wasn't apparent to the demonstrator, whom I asked for the information.
As for the naming of the bag, I have taken to calling it the Anykine Bag, since that's what I was told it was for, any kine stuff.
As it is with the inexperienced [that's me] giving instructions, there are bound to be errors galore. If there aren't, I'll be certain to have a heart attack. However, if you should find errors, be a sweetheart and email me to let me know, willya?
Supplies [Stuff you'll need besides the basics. If you don't know what the basics are, boy! We're in trouble, already!]:
-Fabric
-Fusible Interface
-Zipper [7" is adequate]
-Material for handle, such as grosgrain ribbon, Wright's Tubular Bias, or anything that is decorative and can be sewn into.
Please read through instructions, first, before starting the project. Also, be aware that I am very verbose, but this tendency is well-meant; I want to be as informative as possible, and to include little things I learned, some helpful, some not so, along the way.
Step 1
Because the season is upon us, I picked out some Halloween themed material. The material is lightweight, so to add body and strength, I've applied fuseable interfacing. Pay strict attention to this step because you really don't want to bond your iron to the interfacing. Trust me!
Apply interfacing to the fabric by placing the shiny side of interfacing to the wrong side of fabric and iron until they've bonded together.
A word of caution: Follow manufacturer's instruction when applying interfacing. Note:
1. Measurements can be adjusted, but the rule of thumb is that the length has to be twice the length of the width.
2. Choose appropriately sized printed fabrics, particularly when making smaller bags, including 10"x5" measurements, otherwise, prints will be obscure. But, hey! It's your bag, so it's your call!
Step 2
After bonding fusible interfacing and material, it's wise to finish the edge to prohibit fraying. Since I don't have a Baby Lock Serger, I make do with my plain old zig-zag feature on my plain old sewing machine.
Step 3
Do you know how to sew on zippers? If so, GREAT! If not, I'll tell you how I did it.
Paying attention to the direction of print on the fabric [I wanted to be sure that when I zipped the bag closed, the slider would end at the top of the bag, along with the direction of the fabric!], I matched the right sides of fabric and zipper together, and sewed close to the edge keeping both fabric and zipper carefully lined up. Before I turned the zipper over, I ran a my nail along side the zipper teeth to create a crease. You will soon see why. Note:
1. If it matters or not, I'm not certain, however, be aware the placement of the bottom stop of the zipper. I think as long as you place it about ½" above the bottom edge of the fabric, you'll be okay. Mess around with this until you find the best placement, just like I did!
2. The term Right side of fabric/zipper is used in opposition to the Wrong side of fabric/zipper!
Step 4
Turning both zipper and fabric to its right sides, I created a finished edge by using the crease I made, with my trusty fingernail, to butt up the fabric to the zipper teeth and folding back the rest of the material. I don't know if there's an exact science to this part, but I like the finishing seam to be pretty close to the zipper teeth, so that's how I determined where I would sew it. And, I did.
You will have to repeat Step 3 and Step 4 for the other side of the zipper. Working the other side of the zipper gets a little tricky because you're going to have to deal with the Bottom Stop of the zipper. I opened the zipper fully and then carefully, finished sewing by scrunching up the material so the needle would sew only where I wanted it to. See! I told you this would be tricky.
Step 5
Being the crazy fool I am, this step should be, like, the third, but I like to make things interesting.
With zipper in place, and zipped up, I fold the bag, in half, with the zipper dead center. I then use the zipper as my guide to where I placed the handle/strap, and sewed the handle to the right side of fabric [see picture] into place. [If you're a stickler like me, you'll appreciate the strap lining up nicely with the closed zipper when your bag is completed!]
UPdate! It's just about the time to clarify how I folded the bag in half. Observe the photo to your right and I think you'll get the idea.
Step 6
The next step is to fold the edges in towards each other, creating pleats. This is beautifully illustrated in the picture that's put there for your convenience. Once I felt confident with my fold, making sure that the pleats touched in the center, and were equal on both sides [Do use a measuring ruler!], I creased it by hand, and sewed it up.
Note:
1. Make certain to leave the zipper half-way unzippered. Otherwise, depending on which end you sew up first, you may sew the slider into uselessness; and
2. If you don't leave the zipper a little open [a lot, if you have sausage-fingers], you'll have a hell of a time getting it open to turn it inside out. What fun is that?
3. Use the balance wheel to manually stitch over the zipper.
Step 7
Both ends are now all sewed up. As you can see in the picture, the zipper has an opening that's just enough for me to wiggle my sausage fingers inside to open it up fully.
Step 8
Trim off zipper ends, and WHALAH! They're ready to be turned rightside out.
After fidgeting with your Anykine Bag to make it reach its potential, it should look like this:
Because the season is upon us, I picked out some Halloween themed material. The material is lightweight, so to add body and strength, I've applied fuseable interfacing. Pay strict attention to this step because you really don't want to bond your iron to the interfacing. Trust me!
After bonding fusible interfacing and material, it's wise to finish the edge to prohibit fraying. Since I don't have a Baby Lock Serger, I make do with my plain old zig-zag feature on my plain old sewing machine.
Do you know how to sew on zippers? If so, GREAT! If not, I'll tell you how I did it.
Turning both zipper and fabric to its right sides, I created a finished edge by using the crease I made, with my trusty fingernail, to butt up the fabric to the zipper teeth and folding back the rest of the material. I don't know if there's an exact science to this part, but I like the finishing seam to be pretty close to the zipper teeth, so that's how I determined where I would sew it. And, I did.
Being the crazy fool I am, this step should be, like, the third, but I like to make things interesting.
UPdate! It's just about the time to clarify how I folded the bag in half. Observe the photo to your right and I think you'll get the idea.
The next step is to fold the edges in towards each other, creating pleats. This is beautifully illustrated in the picture that's put there for your convenience. Once I felt confident with my fold, making sure that the pleats touched in the center, and were equal on both sides [Do use a measuring ruler!], I creased it by hand, and sewed it up.
Both ends are now all sewed up. As you can see in the picture, the zipper has an opening that's just enough for me to wiggle my sausage fingers inside to open it up fully.
Trim off zipper ends, and WHALAH! They're ready to be turned rightside out.